Bridges and Roots of Understanding: A Semester Abroad with Peru's Indigenous Peoples

Embarking on a journey to Peru was more than just a semester abroad; it was a profound exploration of my Latin American roots and a learning opportunity with the indigenous cultures that shape the region. Born and raised in Chile, nestled in the Southern Cone, Peru had always been a place I dreamed of visiting. This long-held dream, fueled by my academic pursuits in Geography and Africana and Latin American studies, finally materialized as I embarked on a semester with the SIT program "Indigenous Peoples and Globalization" with 17 other students coming from different universities in the US, my homestay family and the local staff team. From the bustling streets of Cusco to the serene landscapes of Taquile Island and the Peruvian Amazon, each moment was filled with the rich heritage of the land and its people. 

The cornerstone of my academic journey was the diverse array of courses, each designed to explore different facets of indigenous identity and the impact of globalization. From the "History of Indigenous Cultures in Peru" to "Indigenous Peoples in Motion: Changes, Resistance, and Globalization," every class provided a nuanced perspective on the challenges and resistance efforts of indigenous communities. Another impactful aspect of my academic engagement was the emphasis on language learning - including Spanish and Quechua, and cultural immersion. As part of the program, I studied Quechua, one of the most influential indigenous languages in the Peruvian Andes. This introductory course honed my language skills and deepened my appreciation for the cultural elements embedded within the language. From a homestay experience in urban Cusco with my host parents, Maco and Jaime, to living with a Quechua-speaking family on Taquile Island, I had the privilege of learning from first-hand experiences and forging beautiful connections that I intend to keep nurturing in the years to come.

The academic excursions organized as part of the program also provided a unique opportunity to immerse myself in Peru's diverse landscapes and cultures. The first excursion took us to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, where we explored ancient archaeological sites, met with the Huilloc indigenous community, and learned about traditional textile production. Standing amidst the ruins of Machu Picchu, I was struck by the rich history of the Inca civilization, whose legacy continues to inspire to this day. Yet, I was also struck by the devastating consequences of the Spanish conquest of the Incas in 1532.

Our second excursion to Lake Titicaca and Puno offered a glimpse into the unique way of life of the Uros people, who inhabit floating islands made of totora reeds. From there, we transitioned to living for a week with a local family on Taquile Island, where I was welcomed with open arms by my host parents and little sister, sharing meals, stories, and laughter at over 12,959 feet in altitude. While there, I became immersed in their daily routine, including assisting with sowing potatoes, grazing sheep, and learning about textiles. 

Lastly, the journey to the Madre de Dios Region in the Peruvian Amazon was one of the most meaningful to me and offered a glimpse into the heart of one of the world's largest rainforests, where indigenous communities are confronting the impacts of globalization and tourism head-on. One of the things that mesmerized me the most was to realize how incredibly geographically diverse Peru is. I had always heard about the importance of the Andes in the country - as in the case of Chile. However, it was powerful to realize that over 60% of Peru is covered by tropical forests, making it the country with the world's fourth-largest area of these vital ecosystems. Moreover, there are around 40 indigenous groups in the Peruvian Amazon itself, compared to much fewer in the Andes region of Peru, which are primarily Quechua and Aymara-speaking communities. Spending a week in the Native Community of Infierno, attending lectures from indigenous leaders, and participating in local agricultural activities, I was humbled by the resilience and resourcefulness of those who call this place home. Here, I witnessed firsthand the delicate balance between tradition and modernity as indigenous communities grapple with the challenges of ecotourism and environmental degradation - which inspired the topic for my independent study project.

In my quest to delve deeper into the intricate relationship between indigenous communities and the growing phenomenon of tourism, I embarked on an Independent Study Project focused on the impact of ecotourism on traditional agricultural practices in the Peruvian Amazon; particularly in the Native Community of Infierno with the Ese Eja people. Through immersive fieldwork and in-depth interviews with community members, I sought to understand how the eco-project “Rainforest Expedition” and the commercialization of nature have reshaped the dynamics and cosmovisión (worldview) of the Ese Eja farming practices, known as chacras.

My research revealed a nuanced picture of ecotourism's opportunities and challenges in indigenous communities. On one hand, ecotourism has provided economic opportunities for indigenous communities, offering alternative sources of income and incentivizing the preservation of natural landscapes. However, the commodification of indigenous culture and the pressure to cater to tourist demands have also posed significant challenges to the continuity of chacras, leading to the loss of their spiritual beliefs and traditional agricultural knowledge among the younger generations.

For the Ese Eja people, chacras are not merely economic activities but are deeply intertwined with indigenous worldviews, spirituality, and cultural identity. Crop cultivation, land care, and the rhythms of the agricultural calendar are all expressions of indigenous cosmovisions and ancestral knowledge passed down through generations. As ecotourism encroaches upon indigenous territories, there is a risk of these traditional practices being commodified, diluted, or abandoned in favor of more lucrative tourist activities.

Reflecting on my time spent in Peru, mainly conducting my independent research in the Peruvian Amazon, I was reminded of the critical insights gained from the ALST course “Entangled Intimacies: Introduction to Africana and Latin American Studies” with Professor Kezia Page, where we delved into Jamaica Kincaid's "A Small Place." Kincaid's visceral critique of tourism resonated deeply with me as I navigated Peru's diverse cultural and geographical tapestry. Her condemnation of the colonial legacy and the exploitative nature of tourism struck me, prompting me to examine my positionality as a tourist in a country rich with indigenous communities and vulnerable populations. The dichotomy between the depiction of poverty and the harsh realities faced by indigenous communities laid bare the ethical dilemmas inherent in tourism.

During my time in the Amazon, I also had the opportunity to engage in a conversation with an indigenous healer named ‘Don Manuel’ from the “Traditional Medicine Center of Ñape,” who described the nuanced impacts of tourism on indigenous cultures. Don Manuel's lamentation over the loss of traditional knowledge and the commodification of ancestral rituals with medicinal plants underscored the urgent need for responsible tourism practices. The construction of 'eco-lodges' at the expense of primary medicinal forests highlighted the destructive consequences of unchecked tourism development.

Moreover, my research project on the impact of ecotourism on chacras and cosmovisión provided a deeper understanding of the complexities at play. As tourists flock to indigenous communities in search of exotic experiences, there is a risk of cultural appropriation and exploitation of indigenous knowledge. The delicate balance between economic opportunities and cultural preservation hangs in the balance, demanding greater awareness and accountability from tourists and policymakers alike.

Navigating these different spaces and pondering all my enlightening experiences and conversations, I was reminded of the imperative to approach tourism with humility, respect, and a commitment to fostering genuine intercultural dialogue. By amplifying indigenous voices, supporting community-led initiatives, and advocating for sustainable tourism practices, we can ensure that tourism becomes a force for positive change rather than perpetuating colonial legacies.

Reflecting on my semester abroad in Peru, I am filled with profound gratitude and humility for the experiences and insights gained during this transformative journey, besides all the incredible friends I made along the way. My time in Peru was a journey of discovery, growth, and enormous transformation. It deepened my understanding of indigenous cultures, broadened my perspectives on globalization, and inspired me to be a more conscientious and compassionate global citizen. As I carry forward the lessons and memories from my time in Peru, I am committed to advocating for indigenous rights, cultural preservation, and sustainable development, both in Peru and beyond. Every single place and every person I met along the way left an indelible mark on my heart, helped me reconnect with my Latin American roots, and brought a sense of home once again.

On our way to take the train to Macchu Pichu with my dear friend London.